Preparations for Floor

The inside of the hulls had to be glassed over before the floor structure is fitted.

These old photos show Birgit working on that task.

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More Bathroom Photos

These are some older photos of the bathroom, showing the internal wall and high seat in the cockpit, as seen both inside the cabin and also on the outside from the cockpit. This high seat was built as a module and fitted into the wall, eliminating the locker behind it in order to provide additional headroom at the aft end of the bathroom (so that you can stand in front of the washing machine).

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Fitting the Toilet

Work is progressing forward in the starboard hull, after starting with the steps, the rudder post, the bulkhead on the rear frame and the inner wall separating the head from the cockpit, we are now at the back of the bathroom, and working on the internal fitout.

These photos show the fitting into the rear of the head of the toilet and washing machine.

With the changes to the deck and sheerline above the head, there is more space at the rear of this cabin. Here the washing machine sits on a plinth to raise it above water level, and the toilet sits level on a wedge flange that compensates for the sloping floor.

There are two access hatches behind the washing machine. These provide access to the black water tank (below) and into the top of the rudder stock (above). Hopefully, these will only be rarely used to fix problems.

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The case for CNC cut frames

There was a lot of effort required to program the frame geometry into the software that drives the CNC router. It could be done quick and dirty, or it could be programmed. Quick and dirty means describing each frame one by one, figuring each of the dimensions from the offsets provided in the plans. To program it means accepting each of the offset values as a parameter, and using that parameter abstractly, like in algebra, and making the calculations around those parameters as though they were programming variables. I’m a programmer, so there was not a choice. It took time, but once done, all frame dimensions were entered into the CNC software as parameters in the order they appear on the plan offsets. Loading the dimensions in this way eliminated the risk of a data entry error causing a mistake.

It was a lot of effort, but I reckon that effort payed off in a number of different ways:

  1. time to actually cut the frames
  2. making sure the frames (and thus) hulls were identical
  3. locating the stringer notches on each frame
  4. frame numbering for reference
  5. accurate guidelines layed out for waterline, centerline, sheer and upper chine heights
  6. accurate access cutouts saved time in setting up on the strongback
  7. accurate access cutouts saved time in ensuring the two hulls were parallel and level when setting out the bridgedeck

Before I elaborate on each of those points, there were additional benefits too, in having calculated the angle of each side of each frame. When it came to cutting the bevels for the ring around the frames, knowing the angle meant that I could simply dial in the cut on the bevel saw and get a perfect join each time.

When it was time to start fitting out the hulls, knowing the angle of the sides at the location of the frames made it simple to cut the angles on the bevel saw for the furniture and fitout.

1. Time saved cutting the frames:
As the frames are cut with a router rather than a saw, there were no torn edges on the cuts. There was no transposing from the table of offsets into measurements on the sheets of ply. All of that went into the programming of the software. Simply load a sheet of ply into the machine, and press the button.

2. Identical Hulls:
As both sets of frames were cut perfectly with a machine, there is no risk that one hull might be different from the other.

3. Locating the Stringer notches:
Stringer notches were cut into the plywood frames, but had to be recut into the frame “ring” after it was glued and secured. But that required no further measurements. Simply pickup the jigsaw and cut out the notch.

4. Frame Numbering:
Each frame was numbered, in the middle above the sheer line. This made it easy when working with others that were unfamiliar with the hull.

5. Guidelines:
Accurate guidelines were marked into each frame for the critical levels. This made is easy check accuracy of the structure.

They guidelines were the waterline, the centreline and the upper chine line. These reference points have proved useful at all stages of construction.

6. Accurate Access Cutouts on the Strongback:
Having all the cutouts accurately removed from the frames provided a quick way of checking the vertical accuracy of each frame, and the longitudinal positioning.

The usual method for checking accuracy is a string line down the centerline of the strongback and to plumb bob off that.

As well, I could string line through the middle of the frames.

7. Accurate Cutouts for Setout of the Hulls:
Accurate cutouts made it easy to measure the accuracy of how I layed out the two hulls before joining with frames and bridgedeck.

Rather than having to measure from the hull centerlines, I could measure directly off the cutout edges. The tape measure could easily be handled by one person to measure the distance between offsets on the two hulls.

Posted in Hull Frames | 2 Comments

Bathroom Inner Wall

When there is so much space in a “head”, it might as well get called a bathroom.

On most other boats, these facilities are crammed in between cabins. On a Sarah, the end of one hull is available for the shower, toilet and laundry. We might as well call this the bathroom.

The inner wall separates the cabin from the cockpit and the outboard motor well. The wall kinks into the cabin to provide additional space for the motor’s powerhead. This causes additional pieces to be glued and screwed to create the wall.

At the top of the wall is a box, that serves as both an access step on to the deck of the boat, and a cosy seat for steering using a tiller. That seat is squeezed between competing requirements. It needs to be pushed forward to create an adequate space to sit, but that encroaches on the headroom in the bathroom. We have changed the sheer line at the aft end of the hull to provide the headroom and seat width further aft than the plan.

These are photos of the wall being dry fitted.

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Hulls Rolled – More Photos

I found more photos of the hull rollover.

It was the hottest day of the summer, going well over 40 degrees. Here is a gallery of the snaps that were taken on the day.

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Bridgedeck

The bridgedeck is the floor of the cabin that joins the 2 hulls.

It is created from 6 sheets of 12mm plywood, which was step scarfed on the CNC router before joining, with 7 stringers of 60×40 douglas fir.

The huge assembly was made upside down, stringers glue coved, before glassing and bogging. It then had to be taken outside, rolled over, and brought back in and lifted in between the 2 hulls, and up onto the bulheads that had been completed. There was a perfect 2mm gap on both sides.

This has been a huge landmark. Now that there is a floor in the main cabins, the bulkheads are walls instead of just frames. It really now feels like a boat. To walk around has the impression of being “on board”.

Posted in Joining the Hulls | 1 Comment

Bulkheads Commenced

Now looking like a boat. Hulls have been leveled and straightened.

Initially, bulkheads were just timber

We have been using a laser level, spirit level and diagonal distances to get it all straight. Hulls are sitting on their keels, with chocks under each end of each hull. Centre-line separation of the hulls is ensured by the length of the bulkheads that join them together.

Frame 2 Beam

At this stage, all components are being “dry fitted”; screwed on but not glued.

Gussets on Frames

Frames 5 and 3, looking forward. A gusset of ply has been added to the bottom of each frame to give it extra stability before the bridgedeck floor is fitted. Our dog needs to be the center of attention, and thinks nothing of jumping up to where the action is. Like our stack of plywood, at times, she behaves just like a cat! Note the high speed tail wag, blurred in the photo.

Looks like a saloon

Just need to add a floor and a few seats. Give it a year.

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Hulls Rolled

Yesterday, we had 21 visitors help us roll the two hulls. Thanks, everyone!

The job went smoothly, with no real issues. Within an hour, we had both hulls standing in almost the correct position.

The day was way too hot, and while is was still late morning, the temp was already over 35C, and went to 42 later in the afternoon. So we didn’t spend much time trying to straighten up the hulls; I’ll do that later, when it is cooler. We added my temporary “frame 5 bulkhead”, a few temporary legs, and a brace onto the shed. That will do for now.

We were too busy working to take photos, but here are a couple of videos, sped up 6 times normal speed and reduced in quality so that they will load quickly.




Click this image to watch the video clip




Click this image to watch the video clip

And it seems that this was the only still photo taken:

Thanks to all the helpers

Posted in Joining the Hulls | 2 Comments

Port Outboard Pod

I am still not sure about the outboard motors to use, but I am sure that I want more power than the pair of 10hp Yamaha high-thrust that is the most common choice for these boats. I have been considering using a larger motor on one side. While both pods have been built extra strong, this one is also larger.

The outboard pod on the port hull was again constructed into the frames, right from the start. The vertical wall on the inside of the outboard well, with the galley on the inside, has been built into the hull from the start. At this point, the plans ask for the hull to be built to the upper chine height, to be later cut away for the vertical section. That would mean that the taller outboard transom would need to be extended. Instead, I have built it in from the start, and to provide more space for a bigger motor, I extended the whole outboard pod and transom an extra 50mm.

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